Hairstyling product

A year and a half natural.

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I am so sorry… I did not realize that I haven’t submitted an entry in a year. I promised to have a post up soon explaining how my hair journey is going. Above you will find an array of pictures showing the stages of my hair journey.

Time to get Creative

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English: Fractionated Coconut (Cocos nucifera)...

 

During the winter months I tend to get bored so I like to concoct new hair products from old products. Recently I created a shampoo that cleanses my scalp but conditions my hair at the same time. After I shampoo my hair, it tends to feel like straw but conditioners or co-washing donā€™t get my scalp and hair clean enough so I add water to my shampoo so I can get my scalp clean and my hair doesnā€™t feel stripped. But I think I found an alternative. Ā All I did was add coconut oil into my shampoo. I added two parts shampoo into an empty bottle and added one part liquified unrefined coconut oil into the same bottle. Unrefined coconut oil will solidify during colder months so you have to warm the oil either by stove top or microwave. I just scooped out about a table-spoon of coconut oil and placed it in a plastic container and popped it in the microwave for 30-45 seconds. Ā After the oil liquified (make sure to check the oil to see that itā€™s not bubbling, remember this is going on your scalp!) add the oil into the shampoo. My favorite shampoo is from Aubrey Organics itā€™s all natural and my favorite part itā€™s cheap. Aubrey Organics shampoo color is brown, when I added the coconut oil into the shampoo, the color changed from brown to caramel. I shampooed my hair twice to make sure I removed any product build up. I was happy with the results, my hair was softer after I shampoo with my new mixture compared with when I shampoo with two parts shampoo one part water. I hope this inspires you to get creative give this a try too also some other concoctions!

 

Time Flies When You’re Having Fun

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It has been three months since I big chopped. Even though it has only been three months it feels like Iā€™ve been natural for so much longer. Recently I was looking at my pictures albums on facebook from over the years and I did a double take and said to myself ā€œoh, thatā€™s right I had a relaxerā€. Looking at those pictures I realized that I was relaxing my hair for twenty years and during that whole time I only liked one hair style. I told myself that chapter is closed and that itā€™s time to move forward.

With that being said my hair is a TWA (teeny-weeny afro) the sides have grown in and the top is really curly. I have adopted a new motto ā€œembrace the shrinkageā€, my hair is curly so I wonā€™t be able to show the world my length which is fine by me I think of my hair length as my little secret. Ā I should tell you that I have one strand on my head that is bone straight, I remember as a child asking my mother why my hair wasnā€™t naturally straight like my classmates. When she sat me down and explained to me why my hair was different she forgot to mention that I would have straight hair, it would just be gray and in the front of my hairline. Can you image a two-inch gray hair that loves to stand straight up in the air; while the rest of your hair is neatly coiled and is laying flat? I tell my gray strand every morning that itā€™s disrespectful and when I find my shears it will be gone! Okay Iā€™m done rantingā€¦

I am starting to see my hair pattern and the density of my strands. I have curly coily hair that is fine to medium density.My favorite pastime is playing in my hair; Yes, I suffer from HIHS (Hand In Hair Syndrome). Iā€™ve learned you can go broke buying hair products because it seems that my hair is similar to my personality. The longer my hair gets the more it likes to change its mind. At one moment my hair will be in love with a product and the next it gets bored and is ready to move on to something else. Just like my personality my hair has expensive taste; I found that my hair loves Curl Junkie Products. Since my hair is short the price doesnā€™t really bother me. A 12oz bottle of Curl Junkie Beauticurls Argan & Olive Oil Daily Hair Conditioner might run me $19 but it will last me at least six months.

Time flies when you are having fun, Iā€™ve enjoyed every moment of my natural hair journey. Iā€™m embracing my shrinkage, finding staple hair products and enjoying playing with my curls. What I have learned is that what I enjoy the most is taking this journey one day at a time.

 

 

 

Whatā€™s a Girl to do?

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With summer coming to an end and my hair beginning to grow out, I find myself asking this question lately. In my previous blog post ā€œThe Good Hair Day Remedyā€ I discussed why temperature, humidity and dew point is so important for curly or natural hair. Now Iā€™m questioning what am I supposed to do with my hair in the winter months? In the summer were trying to protect our hair from all the moisture in the air, I find it comical that we have the opposite problem in the winter. In the winter, at least on the east coast, there isnā€™t any moisture in the air other than when snows.

I am anxious about my first winter with natural hair. In the past during the winter months my hair was miserable; I suffer from dry scalp during this time and believe me I have tried every dry scalp remedy. Hot oil treatment, hair streamer, oiling my scalp with ever and any natural oil but nothing seems to work. My hair also becomes extremely dry because of the lack of moisture in the air and when I apply a thick creamy leave in these types of products tends to weigh my hair down. So I walk around with white flakes and oil hair, so not attractive! I read an article that stated that newly naturals, who did the Big Chop, have to start detangling after their hair grew out three inches. Guess whoā€™s going to have three inches just in time for winter? Me!

So hereā€™s my plan Iā€™m going to wait until October and then Iā€™m going to start researching what types of products I need to use and start buying samples to try on my hair to help me during this dreadful season. I have to remind myself that this is part of my journey and once I figure out how to make my hair look and feel great during the winter months I have reached this goal. Am I the only one feeling anxious about the effects winter has on natural hair?

The Good Hair Day Remedy

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Recently I downloaded an app for my Android from NaturallyCurly.com called Curls on the Go.Ā  What I love about this app, other than the wealth of information, is that it is able to tell me the temperature, humidity and dew point for my location, what that means for my hair Ā (optimal or frizzy hair day) Ā and what type of products I should use to have an optimal hair day. I thought to myself this is fantastic I will never have a bad hair day again, especially since my hair has started to grow and the products I used to use are just not working anymore. I knew what temperature and humidity was from experience. I know if the weather man says today will be 100 degrees with 90% humidity itā€™s going to be a nasty day. But I didnā€™t understand what a dew point was and how that affected my hair.

What I have found is the temperature, humidity and dew point can be the difference between and good or bad hair day and why humectantsĀ and anti humectants are important.

RelativeĀ Humidity is vapor pressure of water in the air at a specific time versus the saturated vapor pressure of water at that temperature. The saturated vapor pressure for water changes substantially with temperature; so as the temperature increases or decreases the value of relative humidity changes even if overall water content in the air remains unchanged. How does humidity affect hair? Well hair is largely hydroscopic, meaning it is able to exchange water molecules with moist or dry air. While dry air will drive water molecules from your hair into the environment, humidity has the opposite effect on hair. The hydroscopic nature of hair during humidity will prompt absorption of airborne moisture, which in turn causes swelling of the hair–as much as 16 percent of the diameter in high humidity. High Humidity is any percentage above 45 to 50.

Curly hair tends to be dry and therefore vulnerable to humid air.Ā  It simply wants to soak up moisture. This causes cuticles to expand, which causes frizz. The secret to keeping frizz at bay involves moisture, moisture, moisture. To keep hair properly moisturized, you need a few hair products including: non-sulfate shampoo, a leave-in conditioner, a deep conditioner and a styling product involving silicone.

Dew Point is the temperature at which the air can no longer hold all of its water vapor, and some of the water vapor must condense into liquid water. The dew point is always lower than (or equal to) the air temperature. While relative humidity is (as its name suggests) a relative measure of how humid the air is, the dew point temperature is an absoluteĀ measure of how much water vapor is in the air. In very warm, humid conditions, the dew point temperature often reaches 75 to 77 degrees F, and sometimes exceeds 80 degrees. No matter how hot the temperature gets, a dew point temperature of (say) 75 deg. F always represents the same amount of water vapor in the air. How does dew point affect hair? I have provided a chart that illustrates how dew point affects hair and what you can do to combat the affects.

Dew Point Below 15 F: Very Dry. Use as much moisture and emollients as your hair can handle without over conditioning. Humectants use may need to be cut out entirely or severely limited.

Dew Point 15-30 F: Dry, add moisture and emollients. Limit or cut out humectants.

Dew Point 30-40F: Can be Iffy, some people can tolerate more humectants. Others cannot, very trial and error in this range.

Dew Point 40-60 F: Prime curly range. You should get some curl without the summer frizz. Find balance between moisture and humectants that work for you.

Dew Point 60F and up: You need to find moisture/humectantsĀ tolerance that works for you. Some of you will be able to tolerate humectants. Those of you with porous hair may start to see humectantsĀ induced frizz at this range and especially once the dew point fits 70. Those who get humectantsĀ induced frizz may want to look into anti-humectants to keep that muggy weather out of your hair.

HumectantsĀ are molecules that possess atoms and groups of atoms that attract and bind water to themselves. They can have benefits and drawbacks for curly hair, and their performance is often very dependent upon the amount of moisture in the environment. Applied to the hair humectants draw water to themselves from whichever source is greater either the atmosphere or the hair so be careful

Anti-HumectantsĀ must not be hygroscopic, meaning it must not possess molecular traits that cause it to attract water molecules to itself. It must be water-repellent, which necessarily means insoluble in water. This property allows it to lock out or prevent the intrusion of moisture into the hair from a humid environment. Additionally, these ingredients typically coat, flatten, and seal the external cuticle layer of the hair strands.

So what did I learn? Iā€™ve learned is that Temperature, Humidity and Dew Point are tools we use to learn how much water vapor is in the air which just means how much moisture is in the air. I know that I will have an awesome hair day if the humidity percentage is below 45 and if the dew point is in between 40-60 F. Yes my app can easily tell me if it’s going to be an optimal or frizzy hair day and what products I should use. But, I am the type of person that needs to understand the difference between a good and bad hair day. I hope this helps someone no one should have a bad hair day.

My Hair is Happy

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Yesterday marked the one month anniversary of my ā€œbig chopā€. You can read more about that in ā€œHair Today Gone Tomorrowā€. After I did the big chop I was afraid that I was going to regret my decision. The decision I made to stop relaxing my hair, to transition to natural hair, to big chop so close to my birthday and to go to the barber shop and cut off the majority of my hair.

What I can say is that I donā€™t regret a thing! I was tired of the scalp burns from the relaxer and the dissatisfaction from hair stylists. I transitioned and fell in love with my hair texture and when I big chop I was happy that one, I listened to my mother and went to the barber shop and two, that I stop trying the control the situation (Hello, My Name is Melinda and Iā€™m a former control freak) and allowed the barber to not only cut off my relaxed hair but most of my natural hair as well.

Iā€™ve learned this past month what products and techniques make my hair happy. I can tell that my hair is happy when my hair naturally curls up. The leave in conditioner my hair seems to be in love with, right now, is Darcyā€™s Botanicals Pumpkin Seed Moisturizing Conditioner. I use this product as a direct leave in after I deep conditioner, as a daily leave in and when I do my version of The Curly Girl Method (CGM). My version of the CGM is when I co-wash my hair and I apply a conditioner and do not wash it out. Darcyā€™s Botanicals Pumpkin Seed Moisturizing Conditioner is the only leave in product I really need for my hair at this stage. My hair is naturally curly so I have learned that I can tell if my hair likes a product or not if my hair curls up; I have tried different products in my hair and if my hair doesnā€™t like a product my hair will looked like wool. Not to say that there is anything wrong with a hair texture that doesnā€™t have a curl pattern. But Every time I apply this product to my hair, my hair canā€™t help but curl up it makes my hair happy.

Given that it has been a month since my big chop I was contemplating if I wanted to show any progress pictures, I decided that it wasnā€™t the right choice for me. I would rather do progress pictures every three months. My reasoning being that I donā€™t think you want to see a picture of myself with a Ā½ inch more of hair every month. I would rather show you progress pictures of myself with hair that is 1 Ā½ inch longer, especially when you consider hair shrinkage. People have told me that their starting to notice that my hair is growing and filling out and I can tell when I wash my hair because I can feel that itā€™s a little longer. But after I wash my hair and it dries Iā€™m not able to tell because of the shrinkage; so Iā€™ll show you in September when my hair has grown another inch.

Design Essentials Strengthening Therapy System

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Design Essentials created a line of salon-only treatments designed to improve manageability, shine, curl definition and reduce frizz and swelling for up to 12 weeks. The video above is a step by step guide for controlling and taming frizz for natural hair. A series of videos are available on the Design Essentials youtube channel and http://www.designessentials.com.